The Substantial Sandwich
By Meda Kessler
A sandwich should be savored, not picked apart for the meat filling. It should be thick and require two hands or a knife and fork.
The bread should make you want to splurge on the carbs. And the condiments should make a difference. Lastly, a sandwich should be a meal in and unto itself. We sleuthed out a few in and around the 107, opting not to include burgers, barbecue and tortas. Here’s our short list, with some surprise finds. Note: All these sandwiches were delivered (multiple times for a consistency check), so we didn’t knock off points for how well they traveled or if the bread got a bit soggy. Most of these range in the $10-plus price point with one exception, the Central Market sandwich. We know you probably have your own favorites; check these out, and you might be adding one or two more to your list.
West Coast Steak Sandwich
Our surprise find comes from Doc B’s Fresh Kitchen in The Shops at Clearfork. We ordered this multiple times, and it was consistently good. The tender center-cut filet comes on a soft artisan bread roll topped with a kale slaw, pickled red onion and Parmigiano-Reggiano. It’s presented as two halves held together by wood skewers, so you don’t have to butcher it yourself. The Shops at Clearfork, 5253 Marathon Ave., 682-231-8820, docbsrestaurant.com
Billy Jenkins Beef Sandwich
David Hollister of Wild Acre Brewing Company Camp Bowie might be the sandwich king of the Westside. We tried everything on the Wild Acre menu at least twice before settling on the Billy Jenkins Beef, which is so much more than a meat sandwich. It starts with braised Akaushi wagyu topped with arugula and tomato, plus Gorgonzola, rosemary aioli, crispy leeks and a fried egg. That spread is served between grilled sourdough. You also get a cup of warm broth for dipping. 6473 Camp Bowie Blvd.,
817-353-2074, facebook.com/WildAcreCampBowie
Fried Chicken Parm
We suggest eating this Zoli’s favorite at the restaurant, as all that delicious marinara soaks into the sesame potato bun quickly. Or you can use utensils. Either way, you’ll fill up on the thick pieces of chicken smothered in sauce plus melted cheese. The arugula and cherry pepper aioli cut through all that richness. 3501 Hulen St., 817-402-0050,
zolispizza.com
Fort Worth Cheesesteak
The platter you see in the photo is a large one, and it can barely contain this Swiss Pastry Shop specialty. Smoked rib-eye is bathed in queso blanco studded with peppers and grilled onions and served on a house-baked French roll. You’ll want to share, or else go very, very hungry. 3936 W. Vickery Blvd., 817-732-5661, swisspastryonline.com
Korean Chicken Sandwich
We didn’t plan on having two chicken sandwiches on our list, but we can’t pass up this one from Pacific Table. The white meat, lightly fried, is tender with a bit of a kick, and we love the spicy slaw, too. The whole thing stays together nicely on the poppy seed roll. University Park Village, 1600 S. University Drive, 817-887-9995, pacifictable.com
Truffle Chicken Salad
Next to B&B Butchers steakhouse is a small deli-style space called The Butcher Shop. The sandwich menu is printed on brown butcher paper hanging on the wall. Our splurge? The rich and filling chicken salad, with a just-right dose of truffle oil, is served on an onion roll with lettuce and tomato. If you want to splurge, add bacon for an extra buck. The Shops at Clearfork, 5212 Marathon Ave., 817-731-5360, bbbutchers.com
Tomato, Mozzarella & Basil
When you see this sandwich pictured on Central Market’s website, it looks kind of sad. Trust us — it’s anything but. The bread is chewy, the mozzarella is fresh and you get basil and a salsa pesto along with slices of tomato. And it’s a great deal at $7. Chapel Hill Shopping Center, 4651 West Freeway, 817-989-4700, centralmarket.com